Angelika's Table of Yarn Weights

Charted out, designed, tracked and maintained by Angelika
Feel free to print a copy for your use.
Please do not copy for use on your website, commercial or noncommercial
nor for use in any printed materials.
If in doubt, email me.  I'm pretty easy to get along with.  Angelika's Yarn Store, Angelika Burles

by Angelika Burles with lots of help from Kathleen Kinder
and major education on ply & count from Carole Ingram.

©1996-2009

In the past a 4-ply yarn was used to produce bulky afghans and sweaters. It was easy and fast to use because of its large size. But if you talk to me of 4ply yarn, I think of 4 ply, English weight yarn. It is much, much smaller. 
So what terms are we supposed to use? ?
A good question. Part of the past terminology has lost its meaning with our yarn mills today. Today we can have a 4-ply in ALL different weights of yarns.
A ply is a single strand of yarn. 1, 2, 3 or more plies are used for yarn. But each ply can be a different size. But the measurement of plies is very confusing to me. I feel I have to have a degree in plies, counts, twists and so on. It would take a very quiet afternoon and a good book and THEN maybe I'd get it. I salute you if you've got it all figured out!
I do learn by picking up bits and pieces from different sources. Here is how I view yarns and their classifications, and how I help others differentiate.

Learning the classifications of yarns that hand knitters use is important, so that we can use their wonderful yarns on our machines. Fingering, sport, DK, and worsted bring images to a hand knitter’s mind of yarns of varying thickness. But to someone who had not hand knit, these mean nothing. Machine knitters may have no grasp of yarn classification. And coned yarns do not have these classifications on the cones.

When teaching about yarn for a project, I find it easy to translate discussions into "tension type" terminology. If an experienced knitter speaks of 3 strands of 2/24, I may convert it to a standard bed tension type of 7 (tension type 7). The new knitter may say, "Oh, like the Cashmilon I knit?" This loose term "tension type" can be directly connected to different types of yarn classifications. Below are tables that cross reference "tension type" to yarn classifications, with knitting machines listed, sample yarns on the market and notes about what this type of yarn might be used for.

These are based on the common averages. There will always be yarns that are the exception to the rule.

The first section is an extremely fine yarn and each successive section is a little larger yarn, until the last section, which is bulky yarn.

LACEWEIGHT YARNS
2/32 - 2/16 (3/24)

Hand knit needles US 0000-3
2-3.25mm
9 sts or more per inch

TENSION TYPE 3-4 on 4.5mm machine (standard bed)

This section is for extremely fine yarns, which are used more often for crochet doilies and very open lacy shawls. 
Machine knitting with one strand might present some difficulties in knitting off the needles. The standard gauge machines should use their fine knit bar.

More commonly used in double bed multi-color fabrics. When knitted in an open & loose fabric, it is a perfect, light & airy fabric for lace curtains and shawls.
Also works well, to use 2 strands, or 3 strands together, or combine with other yarns, and knit at tension type 5 or 7.

CONED YARNS: Millor Infanta, Bramwell Hobby, Bramwell 2/30,  Yarn Country Newlon 2/24, Jaggerspun Heather 2/20, 2/24 superwash wool & Superfine Merino 2/18, Main Line 2/20, Nomi Lee Mini Cotton Rainbow.

BALLED/SKEINED YARN: Cascade Kid Seta, Lorna's Laces Helen's Lace and any yarn classified as lace weight.

Silver Reed Standard Bed Machines
SK270 Fine Gauge
SK830 Fine Gauge
SK280 Standard Gauge
SK840 Standard Gauge

Brother Standard Bed Machines
No longer manufactured
KH864
KH900
KH970

Artisan Standard Bed Machines
The Artisan 245

LIGHT FINGERING WEIGHT
2/16 (3/24) - 2/12 (3/18)

Hand knit needles US 1-3
2.25-3.25mm
8-9 sts per inch
16-18 wraps per inch

TENSION TYPE 5-6 on 4.5mm machine (standard bed)

A common gauge for dress weight yarns. Perfect for slim fitting slacks & skirts, as well as flaring skirts and suits. If the yarn allows you to tighten down to one tension, this will help to keep slacks and straight skirts from seating out. Return to your regular tension for the shells, tops, jackets & blazers.
These fine yarns are still good for easy 2-color jacquard. Will knit off smoothly and create warm afghans.
A common gauge for light weight jean sweaters. Excellent weight for fairisle sweaters without the added weight that fairisle usually produces. I find this size of yarn laces very nicely.

CONED YARNS: Velveen, a wool-rayon blend used by designers like St John's Knits & Steve Fabrikant, Yeoman Aurora, Bramwell Artistic & Tamm Diamante. Mary Lue's Harmony, Yeoman's Janeiro, fifty-fifty & Perle, NomiLee Lorraine, Bramwell Duomagic, Tamm Estilo, Millor Andino, Yarn Country Newlon 2/12. Tamm Rayito, 3-ply, Estilo, & Star, Yeoman's Panama, Mary Lue's Solo & Yarn Country Cameo Splendor. These are a little heavier and knit at the high end of TT6.

Silver Reed Standard Bed Machines
SK280 Standard Gauge
SK840 Standard Gauge

Brother Standard Bed Machines
No Longer Manufactured
KH864
KH900
KH970

Artisan Standard Bed Machines
The Artisan 245

FINGERING YARNS
2/12 (3/18) - 2/8 (3/12)

Hand knit needles US 1-3
2.25-3.25mm
7-8 sts or more per inch
14 wraps per inch

TENSION TYPE 7-8 on 4.5mm machine (standard bed)

Good for socks, summer sweaters, for babies and lightweight shawls. 2 strands roughly makes a DK weight, 3 strands roughly make worsted weight.
Fingering is such a popular weight. In my opinion, this is the best weight for babies. And makes wonderful summer lace items.
You may find you are knitting this at tension 6 or tension 8. "Tension type" is not a hard and fast rule. It just gives us a place to start when in doubt.
These are probably the most commonly used weights for the average knitter. TT7 & 8 are the ranges a lot of new knitters are taught in. And for easy, quick garments we continue to return to it.
This weight is popular with men's sweaters & cardigans.

CONED YARNS: Bramwell 4ply, Yeoman Cashmilon, Spectrum of Yorkshire Linaria and Forsell Shamal 4ply. Cotton Clouds Mini Perle & Softspun 5/2, Bramwell Savannah, Yeoman Cannele,

At the higher end at Tension 8, falls Aurora's Baby Alpaca, Millor's Trenzado, Tamm's Selina & Cancun. Yeoman’s Panama and

Cashmilon at TT7.

BALLED/SKEINS YARNS: Sock weight yarns fit this category perfectly, and I love to knit jean tops out of a quality sock yarn such as Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock or Cascade's Heritage Sock.

Silver Reed Standard Bed Machines
SK280 Standard Gauge
SK840 Standard Gauge

Brother Standard Bed Machines
No longer manufactured
KH864
KH900
KH970

Artisan Standard Bed Machines
The Artisan 245

SPORT WEIGHT YARNS

Hand knit needles US 4-5
3.25-3.75mm
6 sts per inch
12 wraps per inch

TENSION TYPE 9-10 on 4.5mm machine (standard bed)

TENSION TYPE 2-4 on a 6.5 or 7.0 mm machine (mid-gauge bed)

Almost twice as thick as Fingering.
Excellent for all types of sweaters, cardigans & afghans.
Used on the standard bed and sometimes not, because even though the yarn says DK or Sport Weight, we will have variations within that range.
This weight and the following DK weight yarns are great on the mid-gauge machines and make beautiful cabled and hand manipulated designs.
This type of yarn makes WONDERFUL fabric using the Garter Carriage* at tension 9 or 10. (The garter carriage tension is not exactly the same as our knitting carriage tension. Usually its’ tension 10 is equal to 9 with the main carriage.)
In the Jan/Feb 1998 Issue of MKS, Mina Smith has a beautiful lighthouse afghan on the cover. This garter carriage afghan was done using 2 strands of fingering/Tension Type 7/Yeoman's Cashmilon yarn. While Mina said the afghan is very rich, she thought that it was the absolute maximum thickness it (garter carriage) could handle. To me that means that 2 strands of fingering weight yarn create a sport/DK weight, but somewhat on the heavy side.

CONED YARNS: Millor Piropo, Tamm Cancun

BALLED/SKEINED YARNS: Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sport, Alchemy Yarns Silk Purse, Cascade Pima Tencel are just a few examples.

Silver Reed Standard Bed Machines
SK280 Standard Gauge
SK840 Standard Gauge

Silver Reed Mid-Gauge Bed Machines
LK150 Mid-Gauge
SK160 Mid-Gauge
SK860 Mid-Gauge

Brother Standard Bed Machines
No longer manufactured
KH864
KH900
KH970

Brother Mid-Gauge Machines
(none)

Artisan Standard Bed Machines
The Artisan 245

Artisan Mid-Gauge Bed Machines
The Artisan 70D

DK WEIGHT YARNS

Hand knit needles US 5-6
3.75-4mm
5.5-6 sts per inch
11 wraps per inch

TENSION TYPE 5-7 on 6.5-7mm (mid-gauge bed machines)

TENSION TYPE 0-1 on 9mm (bulky bed machines)

The most popular gauge being hand knit and machine knit today. Can sometimes be classified as a Light Worsted or Heavy DK.
This type of yarn is beautiful in sculptured knits (i.e. cables, bobbles and textures). The Mid-gauge machines were the last gauge of machine manufactured and their design stems from the popularity of this weight of yarn. This machine produces fabric that closest resembles hand knit garments.
Great for teens and men and home décor, such as pillows & afghans. Project knit up fairly fast due to the larger stitch size.

CONED YARNS: Spectrum of Yorkshire Detroit, Forsell Shamal DK & Touch of Silk, Mary Lue’s Forte.

BALLED/SKEINED YARNS: Cascade 220 and 220 Superwash are just a few examples.

Silver Reed Mid-Gauge Bed Machines
LK150
SK160 Mid-Gauge
SK860 Mid-Gauge

Silver Reed Bulky Bed Machines
SK155 Chunky Bed

Brother Mid-Gauge Machines
(none)

Brother Bulky Bed Machines
No longer manufactured.
KH260
KH270

Artisan Mid-Gauge Bed Machines
The Artisan 70D

Artisan Bulky Bed Machines
(none)

WORSTED WEIGHT YARNS
2/8 (3/12) - 2/4 (4/8)

Hand knit needles US 7-9
4.5-5.5mm
4.5-5 sts per inch
9 wraps per inch

TENSION TYPE 5 on 9mm (bulky bed machines)

TENSION TYPE 8-10 on 6.5-7mm (mid-gauge bed machines)

About 3 times as thick as Fingering, hand knitters work them on size 7, 8 & 9 American needles. They usually have 4-6 or less stitches per inch. This is the traditional American 4-ply yarn that we can buy at the discount Marts. Produces a heavier fabric real popular for couch afghans and jackets.
Bramwell's Texas Chunky (a very nice bulky) knits around tension 3. It is classified often as a worsted, but at the tension I see people knitting it, it must be a light worsted. Texas Chunky is equal to 2 strands of Roselan DK (TT9-10 garter carriage or TT3 mid-gauge).

CONED YARNS:  3 strands of a fingering yarn like Cashmilon. Bramwell’s Texas Chunky, Spectrum of Yorkshire’s Strata Aran, Denys Brunton De-Lux Aran, Forsell Slalom Aran, Bramwell Aran Wool.

BALLED YARNS: Lorna's Laces Shepherd Worstedand Cascade 220 just for starters.

Silver Reed Mid-Gauge Bed Machines
LK150 Mid-Gauge
SK160 Mid-Gauge
SK860 Mid-Gauge

Silver Reed Bulky Bed Machines
SK155 Chunky

Brother Mid-Gauge Machines
(none)

Brother Bulky Bed Machines
No longer manufactured.
KH260
KH270

Artisan Mid-Gauge Bed Machines
The Artisan 70D

Artisan Bulky Bed Machines
(none)

BULKY WEIGHT YARNS
2/4 (4/8) & larger

Hand knit needles US 8-10
5-6mm
3-3.5 sts per inch
7-8 wraps per inch

TENSION TYPE 7-9 on 9mm (bulky bed machines)

In the hand knitting supply shops (not discount marts), you can find wonderful quality worsted weight yarns. Mohair with long strands knit at this gauge. The stitches need to be loose enough for the to fur.
Great for cold weather activities, such as skiing. Or for jackets.

CONED YARN: I can’t think of any coned yarns that fit this category. Most machine knitters will combine multiple strands of finer yarns to get this gauge. When combining different yarns, a new yarn is created. Thus an original yarn.

BALLED YARN: In the year 2000, this gauge of yarn and the Super Bulky gauge skyrocketed in popularity. The big stitches meant faster knitting and less intense concentration, thus causing this knitting to be very relaxing for the working person.

Silver Reed Bulky Bed Machines
SK155 Chunky Machine

Brother Bulky Bed Machines
No longer manufactured.
KH260
KH270

Artisan Bulky Bed Machines
(none)

SUPER BULKY WEIGHT YARNS

Hand knit needles US 10-17
6-10+mm
1.5-2.5 sts per inch

TENSION TYPE 10 mm (maybe) (bulky bed machines)

In the year 2000, this gauge of yarn skyrocketed in popularity. The big stitches meant faster knitting and less intense concentration, thus causing this knitting to be very relaxing for the working person.
These are very thick. About 4-6 strands of fingering will make this weight. A very popular weight today with professional people who knit for a hobby and take their knitting everywhere. Knits fast and easy to correct mistakes.

CONED YARNS: (I didn’t find any, unless you multi-strand other finer yarns)

BALLED YARNS: K1C2 Flureece, Tahki Baby, Fargo, Barroco paparazzi, O2, Xpress, Cascade Magnum, Classic Elite Wildflowers, Reynolds Bulky Lopi

Some of these yarns are so bulky they will not knit on the bulky knitting machine, even on every other needle.

In conclusion:

This is just a beginning. Experienced knitters may find this too general & often vague, with many exceptions. But for new knitters this may bridge the gap of how yarns they have been exposed to, relate to yarns commonly used in machine knitting. The final judge of what tension to knit a yarn at is to cast on and knit 20 rows using the above categories as a starting point. Adjust the tension if necessary and knit another 20 rows.

For hand knitters looking to purchase a machine, this guide is perfect for them to rule out the machines that will not knit the yarns that they desire to use on their future knitting machine. With more than 15 different models of knitting machines on the market, and their cost, this is one of the best ways to narrow the search down.

There will certainly be yarns that should fit the TT5 category that seem happier in the TT7 category. Yarns that are fuzzy are an example of this. Sometimes cottons that won't stretch need to go up in tension to knit smoothly. I hope this classification helps you to feel more comfortable with trying a new yarn. If you have any questions feel free to email me.

I want to thank Kathleen Kinder & Carole Ingram for their assistance.I also want to thank Donna Lamb for producing such an informative book.

Ply & Count

According to Carole Ingram at Yarns and . . . . sometimes the ply & count on cones can be misleading. And some companies just to keep the confusion down, don’t mention yarn counts.Carole has a short, but very informative article at her web site. Carole says, "In theexample of 3/9 wool or acrylic, the first number is the number of plies. A ply is a single strand, so this is 3 strands of yarn. The second number of the fraction is the yarn thickness." The higher the thickness number the finer the yarn. It seems backwards to me and that is probably why most of us have trouble with ply & count.